Smithy's Cruise Blog

Maori settled around the large natural harbour in this part of South Island, New Zealand (the Otago region) from about 1100 AD, but it appears that when Captain James Cook came here in 1776 there were not many Maori still here.  In 1848 Scottish migrants arrived and established Dunedin (the Celtic name for Edinburgh).  It is New Zealand’s oldest city and it is home to NZ’s first University, The University of Otago.

Robbie Burns large statue sits above the Octagon, at Dunedin’s centre, and the reminders of that Scottish heritage can be seen throughout the City.

We docked on Sunday at Port Chalmers about 8 miles out of Dunedin. The shuttle bus had a ramp and we were soon on our way into the city at enormous speed, around the fringes of the harbour.

We imagined that everything would be closed, but that was not the case. John and Peter Stafford, the twins from Sandbanks, Dorset made their way to the Cathedral, found it was Commonwealth Day, enjoyed the last 30 minutes of the service and then were entertained to coffee and cakes by the great and the good of Dunedin.  No doubt they made a generous donation to the collection!

We explored the city, heading initially to the old railway station. It has been restored to its former glory and on the top floor is The NZ Sports Hall of Fame. Great fun with many familiar names from the past – Bob Charles, Sean Fitzpatrick and Richard Hadlee and many more! Yes honest.

We did not get to see the University and we know that Gretchen will give us a hard time about that, but we ran out of time after seeing the Cathedral and the elegant buildings in the centre of the City.

The Tasman Sea was easy on us.  The two days it has taken to reach NZ were calm – in fact apart from the massive storms experienced in the first 5 or 6 days after leaving Southampton, the oceans have been kind to us.

Milford Sound is a fiord on the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island.  It is New Zealand’s most famous tourist attraction.  We arrived at the mouth of the Sound at 0730 and a commentary by one of the Fiordland Rangers commenced on the open decks.

I took up position on Deck 9 in front of the gym.  I used to think of it as my private deck – when the ship was new very few people knew how to access it.  Now everyone knows!  It was cold and visability was not very good.  The fiord is surrounded by sheer rock faces that rise nearly 4000 feet on both sides.

I spotted in The Times today a photo of the Queen Mary 2 Captain.

Usually the Commodore of the fleet is in command of the flagship, but in fact the Commodore is here with us. I gather that when he took up the position he made it clear that he wanted to move around the fleet, rather than staying on QM2 throughout.  He joined us in Sydney and has a few days aboard familiarising himself with the ship’s systems before he takes over from Captain Inger, who goes on leave in Wellington.

Mike with Gretchen in Dubai.

Cunard have been producing a number of speakers on each segment and one of them is said to be the Celebrity speaker – John McCarthy, Admiral Lord West and Peter Snow so far and for this leg Roger McGuinn. I will report on him later as he has yet to speak. He was one of the founder members of The Byrds.  I have heard him before on QE and am looking forward to hearing him again, hopefully with fresh presentations!

The singers and dancers appear in a variety of excellent shows during each segment. In the past they have usually been made up of East European dancers, but 10 days ago they were interviewed on stage. All but one of the dancers are Brits and of the four singers, one is Irish, one Scottish, one American and one Canadian.

On Shrove Tuesday there was a pancake race with the singers and dancers and all the other departments taking part. It was somewhat less risky for them than the tug of war competition that they entered earlier in the voyage.

The Bridge team also entered the tug of war, led by the Deputy Captain (at the front – leading by example!).  The chap in the white tee shirt is the Captain’s husband. He told me later that his arms were covered in bruises and rope burns afterwards.  When he agreed to take part he had not appreciated how seriously some of the departments treated the event!

I have just bumped into Carol Marlow.  She was President and CEO of Cunard until about 5 years ago when she moved to the same position with P&O.  She left that job in September at the same as Peter Shanks, who had succeeded her at Cunard, left for pastures new. Carol is on QV for 2 weeks until Auckland as a passenger. I knew her well in the days when Cunard’s offices were across the road from our office.

Sydney has to be one of the world’s top ciites.  I woke to my alarm at 0500 and shot out onto the balcony expecting to see the approach into Sydney Harbour through the Heads. I was too late.  By then we were passing the Opera House and approaching our berth.  And it was still dark, so an earlier alarm call would not have helped!

The Overseas Passenger Terminal where we were berthed is in the heart of the city.  Southampton and ABP could learn so much from Sydney.  There are restaurants, shops and hotels overlooking the cruise ships.  The port is buzzing with people.  Sydney residents love to see the big, modern cruise ships in the middle of their city.  It is great marketing for Sydney and for the cruise lines.

We had been in Sydney in 2006 for 3 days after disembarking from the Sapphire Princess.  We had enjoyed it immensely. On that occasion we had booked a wheelchair friendly tour of the Opera House and, despite it being a sell out, had managed to pick up last minute returns for Swan Lake that evening. Fantastic!

This time we just had the one day. We took a tour of the city in the morning which was excellent and included a visit to Bondi beach.  You may be able to spot me on my surf board. The weather was glorious.

In the afternoon we took a ferry from Circular Quay to the Taronga Zoo.  It is set on a hill and we were bussed to the top and then made our way down with Jane braking hard all the way! The zoo is magnificent although one or two of the animals had clearly had their lunch and were sleeping!

By then the rain storm had subsided and we had a relaxed ferry ride back to the city via Mosman.  A beautiful bay with a marina and surrounded by multi-million dollar homes set into the hill.

Brisbane marks the halfway point on this epic voyage.  It is difficult to believe that we have been on the ship for nearly two months, but my waistline proves it.

Today we celebrated our first Cunard organised tour on this voyage.  At last they were able to arrange a coach with a wheelchair lift. Queen Victoria berthed some 40 minutes from the city centre, but it was an easy drive in. 

So what about Brisbane?  We had not been there before.  It is a lovely city and beautifully designed. Admittedly we were taken to the prosperous suburbs, with traditional as well as modern houses, but the whole city had a superb balance between the old and the new.

Brisbane is built around the Brisbane River which runs through the city in massive S bends and, as in London, old warehouses and wharfs have been converted into stylish apartments.  In the South Bank area, just across the river from the city’s CBD there is a restaurant and leisure precinct, with art galleries, theatres, museums and exhibition halls. 

Everywhere you look, on both sides of the river, are marvellous, tastefully renovated, old buildings alongside the new.

Fiji’s welcome was loud and dramatic.  At 0700 as we neared the quay we woke to the sound of a marching band.  They marched and they danced.  They rarely flagged but when they did take a break, a rock group, half hidden in the shed, played electric guitars at full volume. 

I guess they hid in the shed because they knew it would rain.  And it did for most of the day which was a shame. We ventured out and headed for the capital, Suva. The pavements were not great for wheelchairs but we took refuge from the rain in a modern department store and at the top were food outlets and WiFi.  

Our berth at Noumea was in the commercial port, but despite that we were greeted by a group of Polynesian dancers who performed to an unattractive backdrop of massive containers. No walking is allowed in these container ports and as the shuttle buses were not wheelchair friendly, a man with a van and a ramp was provided to get us to the terminal building.

It was hot, so we returned to the ship for a rest and lunch and then set off again. The local staff (pretty, young ladies) responsible for transport in the port said that the man, Thierry, and his van were under employed and arranged for him to take us to the botanical gardens and zoological park which Jane wanted to visit. 

When Queen Victoria was being built in 2006/7, Cunard let it be known that they intended to set up an exhibition on the ship displaying memorabilia from the earlier Queens – the Queen Mary, the Queen Elizabeth and the QE2.

The logbook was the hand written original covering Queen Mary’s first voyage from John Brown’s shipyard on the Clyde to Southampton and then the first six transatlantic voyages. It mentioned the visit to the ship of King George V and later on the same day the visit of Queen Mary, after whom the ship was, of course, named.

We crossed the International Date Line last night at about 2200 hours. There was a slight bump as we went over but no more than that. But sadly Monday 24 February proved to be a nothing day. It was a shame really. It just didn’t happen. I turned on Sky Sports News to find that it was still Monday for you in the UK but we had moved on to Tuesday.

A couple of weeks ago Jane celebrated her birthday. Thank you for all the good wishes and for the E-cards many of you sent. Because of the slow internet satellite service she was unable to pull them up until today. Clearly the system works better on the left of the International Date Line.

We had a party that day in the cabin and on the balcony. I will attach some photos. A prize for the first person to name the male twins (or should I say twin?). A clue – they are members of RMYC.

We were here in Tahiti last year when we had a fantastic day in the lush cattle country up in the hills. 

We thought we could cover Papeete on foot and then take the ferry, but because we found the walking difficult (high pavements and few dropped kerbs) and tiring, we gave up on the trip to Moorea. What we did see in the capital that stood out were the Parliament buildings. We were given a free rein to wander amongst the buildings and the gardens which were lovely. Parliament didn’t appear to be in session because the whole place was deserted!

Moorea is magnificent, but as Jane had to stay aboard I took a tender and made some rapid trips east and west from the dock courtesy of some black pearl outlet stores that were running free shuttles (ancient vans). I didn’t bother with the black pearls but covered a fair amount of the island. It was a hot and very humid day. Jane survived without me for a couple of hours.

The seamanship was exceptional. An ambulance was waiting. QV glided into the berth, a gangway came out and after some brief discussions between the medics and the ships agent, the patient was transferred. Then it was a very quick departure, the Captain turning the ship on a sixpence, before we headed out of the harbour and back onto our westerley tracks towards Fiji.

At 0630 as the sun rose above the horizon a small island lay ahead of us. We arrived off Adamstown at about 0800 as planned and shortlly thereafter a metal longboat packed with people was spotted motoring towards us.

We counted 48 people in the boat and as there are only 56 inhabitants, clearly just about all of them wanted to come aboard QV. The plan was that the islanders would set up stalls in the Queens Room and when they were ready the passengers, armed with US dollars, would be allowed in to buy. At the same time one of the islanders, Jacqui Christian, would give presentations in the Theatre about life on Pitcairn.

Meeting the islanders and listening to their stories enthralled us all. They had managed to relieve us of fistfulls of dollars and appeared to enjoy doing so! They sold us stamps and tee shirts, caps and carvings, jewellery and honey and every conceivable momento. They even managed to extract US$10 for a Pitcairn stamp on our passports!

To finish, after rapidly boxing up their unsold thrinkets, they sang beautifully to us all. They then piled back into their longboat and made their way back to the tiny quay tucked into the rocks, which formed the only viable access to the island.