Smithy's Cruise Blog

“Attorneys at Law” the sign said.  I thought It was another jewellery store in the shopping mall but I was wrong. It was a very impressive office, but this is Grand Cayman.  Packed with 554 Banks plus Trust Companies, Insurance Companies and all sorts of financial institutions.  I decided to leave the lawyers to their own devices.

This is a smart place and very much geared up to the cruise industry as well as being a tax haven. We knew that other cruise ships would be in port and as we sailed into George Town, Grand Cayman, the Ruby Princess and Brilliance of the Seas were already at anchor.

 Queen Victoria

We anchored and the tenders were made ready.  It was a beautiful day and passengers were quickly making their way ashore when yet another cruise ship appeared, the Disney Fantasia. So four ships were at anchor, all fairly close to the shore.

 Disney Fantasia

You can walk around the town in an hour. Apart from a small chuch and small museum, both overlooking the water, the rest of the waterfront at ground level consists of jewellery outlets and touristy stores. It is great fun and when 4 ships are in port there is plenty of bustle.

Prices for watches and gold and silver all appear to be really competitive with 25% savings on UK prices.

Aruba is about 18 miles north of Venezuela and is now part of the ABC group of islands – Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao.  Formerly a part of the Netherlands Antilles, it is now a separate entity within the Kingdom of the Netherlands.

Aruba is small – 19 x 6 miles – with only 20 inches of rain a year, so it is not a lush paradise but rather a dry, desert like land packed with cacti and aloes.

The island flourished in the 1820’s with the discovery of gold.  When mining gold became uneconemical in the 1920’s, two oil refineries were built on the island.  In the early days, one of the refineries was the largest in the world and was producing more than 400,000 barrels a day.  Refining oil has declined on Aruba but tourism has taken its place and is an expanding industry.

This area is Eagle Beach and is packed with 5 star hotels and a beautiful beach.

It was a hot and humid day, but we found an air conditioned taxi at the terminal building and set off on a tour of the island.

Cloes was the driver.  We were told that he was a good driver. He was, when he looked where he was going, but he often turned round to talk to us, and he often took both hands off the wheel to help his explanations!

Aruba is short of places of real interest.  Stop 1 was for a collection of odd shaped rocks.

I climbed them, but the view from the top was not sensational.  We then drove to the northern Atlantic coast.  An impressive rocky coastline with large waves breaking heavily.

It was Stop 2. The Natural Bridge. Sadly it collapsed in 2005 as you can see, but a new mini natural bridge is there with the appropriate warning!

 Stop 3 was the Chapel of Alto Vista. The road to it was blessed with white crosses and extracts from the Lord’s Prayer and other biblical quotes.

 Also known as the Little Chapel, the pews outside are apparently always packed with worshippers.

 

Stop 4 was the California lighthouse named after a vessel of that name that had been wrecked on the rocks at the northern point of the island.

Stop 5 was Palm Beach and Eagle Beach. Both are magnificent public beaches serving the superb hotels that sit alongside.

In the sand there are numerous divi divi or Watapana trees whose branches are bent at right angles to the trunk by the ever present trade winds.

Aruba impressed us. It is the sort of place you could come to for a week of sunshine in a luxury hotel. That said the island does not offer a great deal more although it is clean and friendly. A pleasant surprise for us.

In 2012 we transited the Canal from the Atlantic to the Pacific in Queen Elizabeth. Today we went in the other direction.  We had an amazing, exhausting day.

The clever part of the plan was to establish a massive lake in the middle of the isthmus and then dig canals either side.  The artificial Gatun Lake was created by building the Gatun Dam and then flooding the area.  The lake would be 85 feet above sea level and a series of locks was needed to get vessels up and down.

Our day started early, with a series of pilot boats arriving just below our balcony from 0615.  

It was a beautiful morning and Panama City glistened in the distance as the sun rose.

We passed under The Bridge of the Americas at about 0800 and headed for the first series of locks – the Miraflores Locks.  

On our left, vast construction works were taking place, creating the new wider additional Panama Canal which will take bigger ships that cannot get through the existing Canal.  Queen Mary 2, for instance, is too wide to get through the existing Canal, but will be able to transit the new one.

When we arrived at the Miraflores Locks eight locomotives were ready to guide us through, two on either side forward and two either side at the stern.  

Each locomotive costs between $2 million and $5 million depending on who you speak to!  The locomotives do not, usually, pull the ship through, but by means of 2 hawsers and pulleys on each locomotive they keep the ship away from the edge of the canal.  The ship is propelled through under its own power.

The QV is a Panamax ship designed to fit into the Canal, but it is very tight, with about two feet on either side spare. You can see from the photos how close the ship is to the wall of the Canal.

I was unable to find out from the experts how the ship was kept in position. Were computers involved? No I was told.  A marine lecturer on the ship told me that the senior pilot had some kit in the centre of the bridge which he used to control the eight locomotives. That seemed unlikely unless he had cameras stategically placed around the ship, because the pilot would not be able to see anything from the centre of the bridge!

During my travels around the ship I found the answer. The Canal transit is tiring because you need to move to different viewing points to get the best photos.

Decks 5 and 6 forward, usually reserved for the crew, were opened for passengers, and that gave brilliant views of the lock gates and the water levels, but there was no cover and it was hot and humid. My “private” deck on 9 in front of the gym gives a better overall view but Deck 3 astern proved to be the best for Panama.

There I was able to reach and touch the Canal wall, shake hands with one of the locomotive drivers and, most importantly talk to one of the pilots, who revealed all, about keeping the ship in the centre of the canal.  

His job was to keep the stern of the ship in the centre and a colleague up forward did the same thing. They were each responsible for 4 locomotives. My man spent his time ensuring that there was always a minimum of 12 inches between the wall and the hull, knowing that that would leave 3 feet on the other side. He achieved that by talking all the time on a walkie talkie to his 4 loco drivers getting them to tighten or slacken their hawsers. I tried to get his cap but I failed!

It was then on to the Miguel Locks, through the Culebra Cut, a narrow channel carved though the hills and into the wonderful Gatun Lake.  Finally we arrived at the last set of locks – the Gatun Locks and once through them we were into the Caribbean!  By then it was 1730 and time for tea.

A couple of days ago I pointed out that my late father was born on 6 April 1914 and would have been 100 on Sunday.  When I mentioned this at dinner on Sunday evening one of our dinner companions, John Thompson from Sheffield, said that his father was born on the same day in the same year.  An amazing coincidence.  Three men at the table, two of whom have fathers born on the same day. Could someone please tell me what the odds are of that happening?

Don’t forget that although we will be transiting from the Pacific to the Atlantic (Caribbean) we will be travelling from the East to the West (Geddit?).

 Not many people know that!

We arrived in Puntarenas in the middle of the night.  Those taking tours were leaving the ship before it was too hot.  When I walked out onto the balcony at 0630 the temperature was 84 F and some tours were just leaving.

The Island Princess was tied up on the other side of the pier so there was much activity around the ships all day.  “All Aboard” was 1630 and as the gangways were being taken down it was apparent that some people were late back. It rarely happens but when the three of them arrived at the gangway 25 minutes late all hot and bothered we realised that we knew all three of them. Interviews with the Commodore in the morning!

If our late father, Captain George E Smith, who was one of only three men who were Captain of both the old Queen Elizabeth and the QE2, had been alive today, my sister Elizabeth and I would have been celebrating his 100th birthday with him!

Born today, 100 years ago!

It’s a long way – 2800 nautical miles and we are taking 6 days to get there.  The weather has improved dramatically so that the last 3 days have been perfect with temperatures in the mid to high eighties and the only wind being that created by the ship. Today there is no swell at all.

We have tracked courses parallel to the coast, initially down past Salinas and Monterey and then LA. We were some way away but thought of Nick Brewer’s son Tim and family in LA and the old Queen Mary in Long Beach where Nick was last year. 

We are usually between 10 and 20 miles from the coast.  San Diego was next, which reminds me that we have just bumped into Tom and Kathy Whelan who boarded the ship in SF.  We first met them on the Maiden Voyage of Queen Mary 2 in 2004. Tom is the Federal Judge in San Diego – he used to specialise in dealing with divorce cases.  But he moved on to more important things!

Now that I have looked at the map I can see why we are having so many sea days.  There is that long sliver of land, the peninsular of Baja California.  Right at the bottom of the finger is Cabo Son Lucas.  We are not visiting it but we did last year.  The peninsular is Mexican and Cabo is a favourite for American students for partying and holidays. It’s a great place to visit, packed with bars and beautiful marinas.

This is the Caribbean band who play on deck 9 by the pool at lunchtime and during balmy evenings.

Just like a Church Fete. Actually more like a jumble sale!  All sorts of rubbish that people then bought because its cheap – not because they will wear it. Well the Fayre took place today and will have raised a few thousand dollars.  The pretty dancer on the right was selling raffle tickets.  I bought lots.

She charged a dollar a time (for a photo) which I thought was fair.

Before we get to Costa Rica we pass Guatamala, El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua but sadly we won’t see them. Then on Tuesday it’s Puntarenas. Not to be muddled with Punta Arenas in Chile where we were on 3 February!

What is going on? There is a water shortage in California.  There are financial penalties if you live here and use too much water but from the moment that we sailed under the Golden Gate at 0515 on Monday morning it has rained almost continuously!

We were not there at the time, because Maggie O’Connell had collected us from outside Pier 35 at 1030 in her brand new black Range Rover and we sped off to meet up with her younger son, Dan at a Starbucks near his office. Dan spent 9 years with Google and was headhunted to AdRoll where he heads up a team of 100.

Dan was in great form.

 His wife Jackie has also recently moved to AdRoll from Twitter.  She is their senior director of marketing.

 Dan and Jackie live a stones throw from the  San Francisco Giants Ball Park.

After some shopping, we met up with Simon and Missy and her mother, Trish and the children for an early supper.  After a few beers we dropped Simon off at his house and for reasons that I cannot now recall, he presented me with a bottle of Lagavulin!

 

Back atMaggies home we were soon in bed exhausted.  In the morning we explored Danville after a cooked breakfast and then headed for an Apple store. 

Jane has had problems on the ship with her Mac and the iStudy man Adam had been unable to sort it out. Apple came up trumps and resolved the problem after an intervention by Lisa (I said I would mention her name!)

We then drove to the city. Maggie is an excellent tour guide and took us along Marina Drive past the magnificent homes, one of which we will be buying after we have collected our Lotto cheque. 

Then we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge and climbed the hill above Sausalito to the new viewing sites there.  The bridge sits below, but the rain was so heavy at that stage that it was not possible to take a decent photo.

I waited and eventually it stopped!                  We then drove back to the ship and sadly had to say our farewells. It had been much too short a visit.

Founder of The Byrds.  Lead guitarist.  Lead vocalist.  Mr Tambourine Man.  Roger McGuinn is the celebrity speaker for this segment and he boarded QV in Honolulu.

He has given 2 presentations so far and there are more to come.  The theatre is packed every time he performs. He is an exceptional performer – a brilliant musician who appears to be an extraordinary person.

When we arrive in the theatre Roger is sitting on stage quietly strumming his 12 string Rickenbacker guitar, with his laptop on a small table alongside him.  

He is clearly highly computer literate and that becomes evident, not only in the professional way he presents, but as a result of things others say about him.  He has numerous clips of original Byrds performances, recordings and chat show appearances which he deftly plays on the big screen.  There are plenty of sound and vision experts employed in the theatre but Roger doesn’t need them.

Yesterday he put up a picture of his van and one of his musician chums said that it was packed with so much technology that Roger could run the US Space programme from it.  In a Q&A session today when asked about his hobbies he said that he loved gadgets.  He also revealed that he loves being at sea.  Cunard love him too!

This was a first for us.  In the past we have sailed on segments of World Voyages, but never the whole thing.  

We knew that World Voyage Dinners happened and there was always a mystery about when and where the Dinner might be.  The obvious place appeared to me to be San Francisco, where the ship was staying overnight.  But it was eventually announced that it was to be in Honolulu on 25 March.

It was a formal black tie affair and Mrs Smith decided that the white tux had to be worn. But what about me? What was I to wear?

A coach with a lift took us on the short journey to the Hawaii Convention Centre and we were led up to a vast terrace for drinks and canapes. There were more than 600 of us.  Soon a group of young girls started to sing and dance for us and the wine flowed.

 We then moved into a vast hall laid out beautifully with tables for ten.

Aboard that coach were a number of the officers who had attended the Dinner, including our World Voyage Concierge, Alice McKay, an amazingly efficient young lady.  And very pretty too!  She looks after the 600 or so World Voyagers every day in the Chart Room showing enormous patience and kindness.