Cartagena

What an amazing place. Cartagena is far enough away from cities like Alicante to the north and Malaga to the southwest to be largely ignored by tourists (well British tourists).

It has a wonderful harbour. Hannibal made his base here in 219 BC before leaving to cross the Alps into Italy with his army. Because of its strategic position and easily defended harbour, the city flourished under the Carthaginians and under the Romans.
Later, the city came under the influence of the Moors and then became a principality of Spain. King Philip II created a major port, but a century later the English occupied the city and then in 1723 the French ruled the area. In the latter part of the 17th century Cartagena declared itself independant but that was shortlived.
During the Spanish Civil War the region did not support Franco and was one of the last cities to fall into Franco’s hands.
What is astounding about the place is that in the 1980’s, when the city authorities decided to clear the whorehouses and bordellos, they knocked down the brothels and the other buildings in the area. And underneath they found Roman remains galore.

They found a massive theatre which archeologists have been working on and restoring. It is unbelievable that something so large could have been forgotten about. They also discovered the Forum and the Roman Baths which have been restored. There are numerous fine buildings to explore and the main street has been beautifully pedestrianised.

The QV’s berth was alongside a very busy marina. Southampton could learn from the way in which the waterfront has been laid out, because the cafes, the restaurants and the sea museums overlook the marina and the cruise ships.
As we located a table in the sun Tim and Jean Whitehead arrived and joined us for a well deserved and very strong coffee.


We suggest that if you haven’t been to Cartagena you make the trip. More and more of the Roman buildings are being recovered and restored and there is plenty to see.

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Livorno and Ajaccio

Livorno is the gateway to Pisa and Florence, but because of the distances involved and the fact that we had been to Pisa before, we decided to explore Livorno.

Reports about Florence indicated that it was not wheelchair friendly and that paths were narrow and cobbled. We are sorry though that we have not been there.
The “wheelchair friendly” shuttle to get us from the ship to the centre of Livono was provided by the city but was less than satisfactory. After a lengthy wait the vehicle arrived. It had a ramp but was designed to take one wheelchair. The driver crammed in many more than that, but none of them were secured in any way, and had there been any heavy braking during the journey, there would have been mayhem. In the event we survived!
Livorno was not the greatest city we have explored, but it was fun and it was a Saturday and the weather was good. We quickly found the large open air market which sold just about everything, including a multitude of fake Prada handbags being offered for sale by men from north Africa? We heard that it is illegal to buy fakes; and that buyers can be arrested and fined. So no Prada handbag for Louise or for Mike for Christmas!
The indoor market nearby was extraordinary.

A beautiful building and a multitude of butchers. There were other foods for sale but every other outlet was a butcher selling a vast array of meats. How many small butchers shops can you find in a UK town these days?

Next day we were in Ajaccio, Corsica. Deputy Captain Love announced our arrival with the standard notices and said that the mist/fog enveloping the town would lift to give us a sunny, warm day. In fact it lifted just as we departed!

The Smith family spent many happy and active holidays further south in Corsica in the late eighties and the nineties with Mark Warner. Sailing, windsurfing, waterskiing and tennis. And al fresco meals with plenty of beer and wine. They were great and we enjoyed 13 Mark Warner holidays during that time making many lifelong friends. The very first such holiday was near to Porto Vecchio on the east coast at the Hotel Ziglione.

Later we found our favourite – Club Marinca opposite Propriano on the bay of that name. A wonderful venue.

But back to Ajaccio and November 2014. We thought we had sailed into the port before but were wrong. Earlier voyages had taken us to Calvi and to Bastia – both further north. Corsica is a big Island. No 4 in size in the Med. But because its mountains are so dominant the roads are difficult and travel is slow. In the days of Mark Warner we rarely left the hotel, not only because of the transport problems, but because of the bandits and the shootings.
Propriano was allegedly a Mafioso stronghold, and at night we occasionally heard shots fired from the other side of the bay. Traffic signs were regularly riddled with bullet holes. And one year we arrived at Marinca to find that the boathouse and bar on the beach had been blown up by rebels who wanted Independence from France. The boats had been blown up too – which was good for us as it meant a brand new fleet of Lasers, windsurfs and waterski boats!
On Sunday Ajaccio was busy. The locals were out in force, and although the shops were closed the cafes in the square were open and there was a small market not far from the ship. We wandered off away from the centre and during our travels met Commodore Rind and his wife Julie. He was in civvies wearing a casual shirt and a large straw hat! 
This is him in uniform.

We moved on and found a castle with a moat. This one didn’t contain poppies but a goat and two donkeys!

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Barcelona

 Barcelona is a magical place. Walking up La Rambla sets the scene. Although it was 1 December it was busy with plenty of tourists and many of them were Spanish.

We set off to explore the narrow, traffic free streets off La Rambla to the east. There were multitudes of neat, small shops and galleries. Jane always wants to stop at every shoe shop, but as there were so many, it was agreed that we would only look into every other one. This one was magical.

When I took out my camera, the assistant asked me to restrict my pictures to general ones, rather than close ups. I’m not sure if she thought I was going to set up in opposition!

My intention was to move slowly north so that we eventually found ourselves outside El 4 Gats – a favourite restaurant recommended by Nigel Freer some years ago.

It was a regular meeting place for Picasso and his chums. Jane was reluctant to have lunch, but I hoped to persuade her otherwise. I failed!

We then came across a Christmas market, which appeared to have only opened that morning. The usual tat, but Jane came across a stall packed with miniatures (which she loves) so we had to peer at hundreds of small Christmas baubles.

Our return to the ship was eventful. One of the shuttle buses had a lift which took a wheelchair and its rider some 8 feet up to the seating level of the coach.
At the ship, the first one out was an elderly man on a mobility scooter. His wife was bossy and he was clearly nervous about manoevering the vehicle onto the lift platform which had no guard rails round it. He would be driving out onto a platform sticking out the side of the coach and 8 foot off the ground. 
The coach driver operating the lift was standing on the ground. I could tell that the old boy was having trouble so got myself behind him to encourage him. He lined himself up and told his wife to ‘shut up’. He gripped the handle bar too tightly and in so doing pulled the accelerator and shot forward on to the lift platform and over the front of it! 
I grabbed the old boy and the back of the scooter and the bus driver pushed the front of the vehicle into the air. The old chap eventually let go of the accelerator and we pulled him back. It took us some time to coax him off!

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Gibraltar

I can never get very excited about Gibraltar. It’s something to do with the Apes (actually they are monkeys and not apes). Jane loves to see them, but to me they are dirty, horrble, little scavengers that jump on your head, steal your sunglasses, cameras and mobile phones and eat your ice creams and sweets. And they bite if you annoy them! They live on the Upper Rock and they leave the area covered in their debris. Keep well clear is my advice!

Sadly it rained for most of the time we were ashore. That meant that we didn’t make it up the Rock and so Jane missed the Barbary apes! But the downside for me was that it did mean that I had to commit to more shoe shops and to the dreaded M&S. Small though, so less to see and very little Per Una. I did find Jane some very nice black ankle boots, which passed the test, as they were easy to get on. Some of her favourite shoes can be a nightmare.
Those of you that have flown planes into Gibraltar will know that the flight path can be blocked by cruise ships. It didn’t happen to us this time, but I do recall our arrival, on one occasion, being delayed until the BA flight from London had landed.

The ship has now been decorated for Christmas and looks fabulous. Immaculate Christmas trees have appeared all over the ship.

And after our departure from Gibraltar we had a day at sea and then the final port, La Coruna.
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La Coruna for the second time

We were here exactly a fortnight ago. La Coruna appears to have become popular with Cunard as the last port on voyages to and from the Med or the Canaries. You can see from these charts why that is. La Coruna is right on the northern tip of Spain.

As soon as you leave the harbour you are in the Bay of Biscay, and (if the conditions in the Bay are reasonable) then it is a fairly easy 15 knot voyage to get to Southampton on time.
La Coruna is, in addition, a very attractive city. This time we found our way into the old town, which is full of churches, schools and narrow streets. We also found the monument dedicated to Sir John Moore.

If his yet to be knighted namesake is reading this, he will no doubt be impressed. It rained briefly after we first left the ship, but then the sun came out and it was a great day. The main square was being set up for a Christmas market. 

In the evening, Jean, Tim, Jane and I had dinner with Deputy Captain Simon Love and Victoria, the Commodore’s secretary, in the Verandah Restaurant. A great occasion.

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175 years of Cunard

On Thursday evening Cunard hosted an event at the Southampton Art Galłery to launch the celebration of Cunard’s 175 years. The impressive exhibition of photographs and posters is worth a visit. The Mayor of Southampton spoke about the contribution that Cunard has made to the port and to the city and Angus Śtruthers responded on behalf of Cunard.
Today, Sunday 3 May 2015, the 3 Queens return from their respective World voyages and this afternoon the 3 ships will leave the port together. The parade will be led by the flagship Queen Mary 2 followed by Queen Elizabeth and Queen Victoria. They should form up at 1630 and be at Dock Head by 1720 reaching Calshot just before 1800.
Queen Mary 2 will head off to New York, while Queen Elizabeth sails to Hamburg and Queen Victoria to Guernsey.
Your blogger will be on Southampton Water this afternoon and will report later on the sailaway procession.

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The 3 Queens leave Southampton

.,We screamed across Southampton Water today at speeds in excess of 40 knots. No, not aboard one of the Queens, but on David Saph’s massive RIB.

David bought Landfall from us in 2013. We boarded his 8 metre RIB near Shamrock Quay at 1500 and motored past St Mary’s, the home of Southampton Football Club and past Ocean Village. 
As we had some 40 minutes before the Queens began to leave their berths, we raced down Southampton Water towards Calshot. At the mouth of the Hamble River, we reduced speed to 6 knots and motored almost to the RSYC before returning to Southampton Water. Then a high speed dash back to Dock Head.
None of us had travelled so fast at sea before (apart from David at the helm). It was extraordinary.
Anthem of the Seas, the latest massive Royal Caribbean cruise ship, left the scene first.

She has been in and out of the port over the last 2 weeks. It was clear that she realised that she was an unwelcome guest today. Then Fred Olsen’s Balmoral scuttled away to leave the stage for the Cunarders.

Queen Elizabeth was berthed at the QEII terminal and she pulled out first.

Queen Victoria was on her own at the Mayflower Terminal and after Queen Mary 2 started to leave Ocean Terminal, QV was moving to join her sisters. QM2 moved to port and sailed past QE and the sailaway down Southampton Water began. QV joined the procession, bringing up the rear.

Earlier at a lunch on board Queen Mary 2 the Captains of the 3 Queens posed for photos. Commodore Christopher Rynd, Captain Inger Klein Thorhauge and Captain Chris Wells.

It was a great day. Many thanks to David Saph for making it possible.
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Follow up to Sunday’s Queen Convoy

ICaptain David Saph had two photographers aboard his unnamed RIB. Your blogger and one Cark Maunsell.

Cark has Dropboxed his photos to me and I have added some of them here.

They indicate to me that either (a) he has a better camera than me or, (b) that he is a better photographer than me.

When I arrived home I explained to my dear wife Jane that we had been screaming up and down Southampton Water, and slamming into the waves at speeds in excess of 50 mph. She listened dutifully and then asked me why we had not been invited to lunch on Queen Mary 2. While I had been away, her younger brother Nigel had dropped in.
There we were, rushing up and down Southampton Water, getting soaked when Captain David executed wheelies and handbrake turns round the buoys. We dreamt of burgers or KFC’s (and ended up with Costa coffees) while Nigel and Christine were having lunch on QM2 with the Master of the ship and the CEO of Carnival, amongst the great and the good. Is there no justice!
Here are Nigel and Christine before they boarded QM2 and a piece of their cake!

The news is that Jane and I join Queen Elizabeth next Monday for the 16 night voyage to The Baltic including an overnight in St Petersburg. And our return takes us to Kirkwall in the Orkneys and then to Liverpool for yet another reunion of the 3 Queens. All part of the 175 celebrations. Linda is again house sitting for us.
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So much for the polls!

Not much sleep last night. Amazing how the exit poll painted a very accurate picture of the likely end result (70 seats still to be declared as I write). All that talk of coalitions by the pollsters showed how inaccurate they can be. Not surprised to see the Lib Dems doing so badly after turning on their coalition partners. Will David Miliband be flying back from the US to take over from his brother?!

We are in the middle of the packing process before boarding Queen Elizabeth on Monday for a Baltic cruise. We take in Oslo, Copenhagen, Stockholm, Tallinn, St Petersburg overnight, Warnemunde, Kirkwall in Orkney and Liverpool on Monday 25 May for further 175 year celebrations with the other 2 Queens. Then one day to get round Lands End and back to Southampton.

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The Baltic and Tribute to Liverpool

That’s what the cruise is called and we are on our way. Bright and early start with no mishaps apart from the missing jacket. Everything done. House left clean and tidy (by my standards) for Linda, our house sitter. I even remembered where the Hoover was kept and how to use it. I remember getting the jacket off the hanger, but just as we were about to leave, the jacket had gone. The conclusion reached by the others was that I must have packed it. Searched everywhere, no joy. Linda will no doubt spot it as soon as she arrives.

There were only 2 cruise ships in so the journey was easy with me in Martin’s taxi with all the luggage and Ian Gordon following, driving the Vauxhall with Jane aboard. 
A little subterfuge found us at the head of the check in queue and quickly sitting with Stewart and Elizabeth Wilson waiting for the signal to board. In our cabin by 12.05 pm must be another world record.
And this time it was not “who you know”, as it was when Annie Guy or Sandy Gravestock were on duty, but “what you know” – nipping past the awkward meeters and greeters when they were looking the other way. 
We first met Stewart and Elizabeth at the Captain’s table on the maiden voyage of Queen Victoria in December 2007. Stewart and I were sitting either side of a tall, attractive lady. I had established that she was the Captain’s wife, but Stewart did not know that and asked her if she liked cruising. She and I led him along for some time and he has never really forgotten or forgiven me for winding him up.
Stewart puts together wonderful stamp collections made up of stamps from around the world featuring Cunard ships. He is also a great Cunard historian and the narratives in the albums record a wide variety of facts about the ships and their careers. Stewart has donated a number of the albums to Cunard and each ship displays two of the albums in glass cases in their libraries. The librarians turn the pages each day.
During lunch on Monday, we bumped into John and Pat from Sheffield. We had dined with them on the Queen Victoria last year. They told us they had been on the segment of this years World voyage from San Francisco to Auckland and had met up with the Stafford twins and joined their table for some of the voyage.
The weather was wonderful as we set off, on time, down Southampton Water. Eight days ago I was travelling over the same stretch of water at some 40 knots. Queen Elizabeth peaked at about 15!
Daylight departures are rare for us. Here are one or two buildings and views. Does anyone know what they are? Answers in ‘Comments’ on the blog please. A fog kept rolling in and out but the sun shone as well.

It was very foggy here!

We sat with some Australians from Sydney at lunch. They told us that there were 460 Australians aboard. Apparently, last year a travel agent in Oz advertised a package which took in 5 days on QV, a night in the De Vere in Southampton, followed by this cruise on QE. Then on 25 May when this ship arrives back in Southampton they move across to Queen Mary 2 which takes them to New York. They then fly back to Sydney.
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